Am I over-contributing to my 403b, and how do I save for goals?

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  • #130893 Reply
    USER

      I need clarity please! Location: NYC
      Gross Income: 110k
      HYSA: 25k
      Paycheck: ~2.9k (varies due to OT)
      Rent: 1.5k
      Student Loans: 500

      403b (maxed, post-tax): 1,175/paycheck
      I am 100% vested for a pension after 5 years from my employer (completely employer contributed)

      1. Am I putting in way too much into my 403b? In reference to retirement, I always see “max it out” but maxing it out is ~40% of my paycheck.

      2. Is opening a ROTH IRA an option even though my employer doesn’t offer it? Maxing it out would be ~586/month. Would this be smart given my current finances?

      3. How does one even begin to save for goals? If everything is being spent on necessities and retirement, how does one save for down payment of a house or to prepare to have children or buying a car? (This is a general question)

      #130894 Reply
      Peter

        You’re crushing retirement—but yeah, if 40% is locking up cash you need now, it’s okay to dial it back.

        Open a Roth IRA on your own (not through work) if you’re under the income limit.

        Then use your HYSA to start stacking for near-term goals like a house or kids.

        Retirement’s important—but so is building a life before you’re 65.

        #130895 Reply
        Scott

          To answer question #3 well, give some clarity on the student loans. Do you mean 500k Or 500 dollars.

          The answer directly applies to the advice.

          #130896 Reply
          Dominick

            1. Max out the match vs trying to max out contribution limits. Need some wiggle room in your budget for when life happens.

            2. Yes a Roth is an option, we set them up all the time for clients in addition to their retirement plans. 3 main factors: right amount, right place/fund, and right amount of time.

            3. Focus on eliminating that $6K student debt ($500/m payment).

            The HYSA has a good start for your house fund or car fund.

            I am a licensed financial advisor if you want to do a zoom to go over everything or just get a 2nd opinion, dm me

            #130897 Reply
            Hagstette

              You can only contribute a certain amount to a Roth IRA annually. You have some room to reorg your investments if you choose.

              In terms of purchasing a home, I would recommend having honest conversations with multiple potential future lenders to get an idea of what they will need from you at a minimum.

              Knowledge is power. They can give you a pre-qualified letter (involves not pulling your credit but giving you an idea of what you can do with your verbalized financial situation).

              Once you decide what lender to go with, they can do a hard credit pull and give you a pre approval letter with your finances confirmed via pay stubs, income taxes, etc.

              While 20% used to be the recommended down payment, it’s just that- a recommendation. There is room to negotiate with some lenders.

              I put 10% down, and saved the rest for repairs and an emergency fund. I went with a conventional mortgage.

              I could have done an FHA, which only requires 3.5% down. With FHA, there are a lot of rules involved that I didn’t want to be bothered with.

              Conventional and FHA mortgages both have pros and cons outside of just the down payment.

              I lost not one, but two homes I placed an offer on, to FHA buyers. The sellers went with their offer because they went above asking, and I wasn’t willing to do that in the event the home failed appraisal.

              Both homes ended up failing to meet the rigid FHA inspections required to approve their loan, and by the time the deal fell through (sellers weren’t agreeable to repairing anything and the buyers couldn’t afford the repairs needed), the sellers agent was asking my buyers agent if I were still interested.

              It’s a wild game, and some sellers get caught up seeing more money, without realizing the risks involved with FHA purchasers (risks, ie. lost time if it doesn’t pass inspection, re-listing the home, buyer not potentially able to accept large fixes needed, bills associated with another month of ownership).

              In terms of lenders, I advised my lender, if the deal was dependent on paying PMI, I had a pre-approval letter from a competitor with 10% down, no PMI, and as a personal choice, no escrow involved (I make more investing that money than the banks interest).

              They agreed without hesitation.

              At the end of the day, if you have employment history, a sound financial plan, investments or securities, a mortgage is income for them for the next 10-30 years.

              They want you to be a customer.

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